This blog post hold the key ingredients for successfully authenticating on layer 2 (802.1x or dot1x) and layer 3 with:
- Junos Pulse supplicant
- Juniper Pulse Access Control Service a.k.a. Unified Access Control (UAC)
- Juniper EX2200 switch
- Microsoft Windows 7 Enterprise Edition
The setup consists of four networks (VLAN's) and Internet access. Inter-VLAN communication is handled by a Juniper SRX210. The four VLAN's are:
- Untrust (VLAN 20)
- Trust (VLAN 10 - 192.168.1.0/24)
This VLAN hosts the UAC, Active Directory, DNS and DHCP services
- Production (VLAN 100 - 192.168.100.0/24)
Network where the normal workstations are placed
- Quarantine (VLAN 200 - 192.168.200.0/24)
This is where the naughty people/PC's are dropped
When a PC is placed in Quarantine, it looses all access to the Internet, but can still resolve domain names, access minimal internal services like the DHCP server and the UAC.
The components on the network are:
- Domain Controller + DNS Server - 192.168.1.10
- DHCP Server - 192.168.1.1
- UAC - 192.168.1.11
- Gateway(s) - .254
The Arca-style tripod heads and plates are one of my favorites. I use them now for over 4 years, and I guess I'll be using them for a long time. Especially the so-called L-plates are awesome.
The L-plates are plates which enables you to put the camera in portrait orientation on the tripod head, without putting the top of the head in an awkward vertical position, which lowers the effective height of your camera on the tripod.
For my former Nikon D300 I had a L-plate by Really Right Stuff, and now that I upgraded to a Fujifilm X-T1, I needed one for that model. This time they (Really Right Stuff - RSS) created a modular L-plate. The former D300 version was made out of one piece, but the this one allows you to remove the L-part of the plate, making the camera lighter. So you need to add that part if you intend to shoot in the portrait orientation. The good thing is that you can order the parts separately. So you can start with the base plate and get the L-part when you need it. I just got them both at the same time.
The entire kit comes with the appropriate hex wrenches and a small screw which can be used on the bottom plate as a stop, so the camera won't accidentally slide out of the ball head. Unfortunately, there's only one stop screw available on the bottom, so the camera can still slide to the other side.
The connection of the two parts is rock solid. No movement what so ever. I just hope that it doesn't wear over time.
While the L-plate is attached to the camera, you can still access all the important parts of the camera.
There is one downside to the L-plate. You cannot use the Fuji wired shutter remote when you have the l-part attached to the bottom plate. But you can always use the Fuji smartphone app to remotely control your camera via a wireless connection.
A couple of years ago I bought the Arca-Swiss Z1 Monoball (with flip-lock) to support my Nikon D300 with several lenses. An excellent ballhead which would last you a life time (that's what I said at the time). And that statement is still valid, IF I was still shooting with (large) DSLR's. In the mean time I sold my DSLR and went for something a bit more compact with the Fujifilm X-T1.
Scaling down on the camera part means that I can also scale down the accessories. A smaller and lighter camera doesn't need a beast like the Arca-Swiss Z1 Monoball for tripod support. Something smaller and lighter (and cheaper) would also suffice.
It's relatively small (compared to the Arca), and about 200grams lighter, while it's still capable of bearing a 20kg load. Not that my current gear comes even near that weight.
It also has the main features of the Arca-Swiss Monoball. Nice bog knobs, with variable friction setting. It also comes with a all-round camera plate (PU60), and a nice bubble-level. The latter is kinda small, so I don't know if it's very usable in the field.
I use the included PU60 plate on my Nikon P7000 P&S camera if necessary. The Wimberley P-5 is my preferred plate under my M9. The Fuji X-T1 is using a Really Right Stuff L-Plate (BXT1). I tested the PU60 on my M9, but even with the rubbery pads on the plate, I could still easily rotate the plate under the camera. This doesn't happen when I use the Wimberley P-5 plate.
This shouldn't be a problem in everyday use, but when you want to do some long-exposures, you don't want the camera to move around the plate itself.
The following photos might give you some idea of the ball head with the included PU60 plate.
The tension on the ball is adjustable (by the 'wheel' in the large knob. It allows you to maintain movement of the ball head, but when you let go of the camera, it stays in the position when you let go. The adjustment can be done with the tip of your finger. If that is hard, you can also use a small coin (or screwdriver) to adjust the friction setting.
It also features a locking mechanism that makes sure that you don't accidentally 'loose' the camera when moving around. This might happen when you loosen the plate. One condition is that the plate attached to the camera has 'stop screws' on the bottom. If these are present, you need to pull and turn the release knob. After that you can safely remove the camera from the ball head.